Toile for Draped Dress

Drape to go at CF of dress.  To create this I cut a large piece of fabric and gathered and pinned it in place, trimming off the excess where necessary.

Shoulder strap/ gathering.  Created using pretty much the same method as the CF drape but its pinned t either end and I had to do a lot more manipulating to get the correct shape.

Bra style top added. I had to manipulate this piece a lot to get the right shape to create drama and more importantly cover the bust!

This is the base dress and bra draping which I created from the patterns I made during the previous stages, as you can see this process has been rather effective and I am pleased with the results.

Here is an up close shot of the bra area.  I had some difficulty when gathering the fabric as it was rather thick, but my final fabric is a lot lighter than this and is much easier to gather.

 View of centre folded zip used in toile.  As you can see there are a lot of raw edges which will not be there in my final garment as I plan to bind all the edges to give a clean finish.

Toile Leggings, first attempt

Front and back top panels for leggings cut out in Calico from patterns I produced.

Front and back middle and bottom panels, middle will be made in fish net in my final garment so I must take this into consideration when manufacturing.

Front leg panel manufactured together, I am pretty sure I have out the middle panel in back to front and I do not think a persons leg bends like this...

Back panels manufactured together, positive I have got all these the right way.  Proven to be very confusing when both sides of the calico look exactly the same...

 I decided to top stitch where to panels attach together, trapping the seam above or below the middle panel (so that when manufactured in the final fabric no seams are visible through the mesh).

 Originally I was going to put a seam into the side seam but this wont be necessary as my final fabric (which was purchased after this toile) it stretch velvet so no zips will be needed.  as you can see the panel do not line up, I think this is because the middle panel on the front leg is on back to front which I mentioned earlier.  I am going to have to do another toile for these leggings and take this into consideration as well as not using any zips due to the nature of my final fabric.

Tiered skirt in Final Fabric

I used the same methods as my toile as these turned out to be very successful and made the amendments I previously mentioned such as manufacturing the base skirt before attaching the tiers.
Due to the nature of the fabric a binding along the upper hem would not have been suitable so I decided to attach a facing, making my skirt a lot sturdier and more able to support the weight of the layers of fabric and using a centre folded zip instead of an invisible as it was more in keeping with my collection and more effective with my fabric choices.

Another adaptation that I made to this skirt was to gather the tiers of fabric instead of pleating as I decided that the pleats did not tie in very well with my collection as this would be the first and only time they would be used.  Whereas gathering created a softer, more feminine look that tied in much better.

Under dress toile

Front and back panel cut out in Calico from the patterns I previously produced.

Toile for waistcoat

Front and back panels, cut out in Calico.

Manufactured together, view of front and back pieces.

 I top stitched along the sleeves as a design feature.

 Starting to take shape now that the shoulder seams have been sewn together.  I am going to do the stop stitching after the shoulder seams have been sewn together in order to create a cleaner and smoother line.

 View from the back.  Just need to sew up the side seams and manufacture a zip in place.

 Side seams sewn together.  Even though this was a basic garment to produce it was still time consuming to add all the top stitching so I will have to keep this in mine when creating my final garment.

Centre folded zip manufactured in CF seam. 

Waterfall Jacket

View of back panels manufactured together.  I have decided that there will be no CB seam as its totally unnecessary and isn't aesthetically pleasing so the middle panel will be cut on the fold.

 Due to the amount of fabric in the waterfall collar it was extremely difficult to manufacture it on neatly, but I believe it will be easier on my final garment as the fabric being used is a lot lighter than Calico.

View of waterfall collar from the front.I am very happy with how this has turned out and I think the shape the waterfall technique is creating is very visually pleasing.

This is the waterfall detailing at the base of the jacket, as you can see it is a repetition of the collar and I think it finishes off the garment perfectly.

 The puff sleeve was also difficult to sample due to the heavy quality of the Calico, which made it very difficult to gather.  Again, my final garment shall be more effective as a lighter, thinner fabric will be used here which is a lot easier to gather.

Puff dress success!

After creating a new pattern for this dress where the CF and CB seams were straight I was able to create exactly what I wanted from this garment!

 These are the fabric pieces cut out from the amended pattern.  As you can see all the added shape is now on the side seams in the hip area, which will create a very feminine, curvy shape when the garment is complete.

 Front view of puff dress (without sleeves as I have already successfully samples in previous toile).  The shape is exactly what I was looking for and is very close to my original design.

 Side view of garment.  I much prefer this dress without the shaping on the front and back seams, before it would of made the wearer look bloated and possibly pregnant where as I wanted a more hour glass silhouette being created.

I am very pleased with the results.